Written by Ivy
Dec 16 2022
It's simple to propagate Peperomia plants. Peperomias can be grown from stem cuttings with little difficulty. Cuttings can be rooted in soil or water to grow new plants.
If utilizing the water method, complete the first step below before immersing the lower leaf nodes in water in a glass or jar (omitting the plastic bag).
In water is the first simple method for growing peperomia. Rooting pothos cuttings in water is a process that is very similar to this one. Simply cut off a stalk (not just a leaf) and place it in a cup of water. After about 6 weeks, mine started forming tiny, white, nearly translucent roots.
If you start to notice the first signs of the tiny white roots, give it a few more weeks. After that, replant it in a small pot and take care of it as you would any other young plant.
Keep it moist and in a humid environment, but with enough airflow to prevent mold growth. I placed mine in a cup with holes for drainage in a bathroom window. It will eventually start to sprout new growth.
Utilizing soil is another method of peperomia propagation. I'm currently propagating some tiny ripple peppers using this technique. Using a leaf cutting or a tip/stem cutting are the two methods for using cuttings to start new peperomia plants. In addition, I employ the tip/stem approach.
How long it takes: ~20 minutes
What you need:
Because it can hold moisture and supply nutrients when the plant starts to grow, soil is a great rooting medium. Your soil should always be slightly moist but not drenched.
Choose a healthy stem with at least four leaves from the mother plant after inspecting it. The bottom two leaves should be removed after this stem has been cut just below the lowest leaf.
Step 2: Add soil to the pot until it is 1 inch below the rim, then add water until the soil is thoroughly moistened. To dig a tiny hole into the soil that is a few inches deep, use a pencil or your finger.
3. Optionally, dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone. Place the cutting in the ground so that the nodes of the lower leaves you removed are below the soil surface. To keep the cuttings in place, lightly pat the soil around the stems.
Step 4: Be careful not to touch the plant when you place the plastic bag over the pot to create a humid environment for your cutting.
Step 5: Keep the cuttings warm and away from direct sunlight in a location with bright, indirect light. To allow the cutting to breathe and to keep the soil moist, periodically remove the bag for a short period of time.
Step 6: Take the bag out once you notice new growth. When the cutting has a few fresh leaves, you can pot it and continue to take care of the plant as normal.
Even peperomia plants can be multiplied using leaf cuttings (just make sure to use this technique only for solid, non-variegated varieties). The procedure is the same as stem cutting propagation; the only difference is that you only need to remove leaves with small stems attached and plant those.
When growing plants from leaf cuttings, rooting hormone is also an option. Though it takes time, the procedure is essentially the same.
The peperomia cuttings should be transplanted to new pots as soon as they begin to show signs of new growth and roots. Depending on your objectives, the size of your container will vary; if this is the transplant's final residence, you will need a pot with a diameter of about 12 Prime inches. Otherwise, any container will work as long as it has drainage holes in the bottom.
Soil that drains well should be placed inside the new containers. Make your own homemade potting soil or use a premium indoor plant potting mix.). For every new plant, create a tiny hole, set it in the hole, and then cover it with soil. Lightly tamp and thoroughly wet.
Peperomia flourish in the wild by growing up the sides of trees and other plants as well as along the forest floor.
Put your plants close to a window to mimic this environment. The best lighting is medium to bright, indirect light; avoid direct sunlight. The plants won't grow properly if they receive insufficient light. For a few weeks, while the baby plant gets used to its new environment, water frequently. Once the plant is established, water only when the soil is completely dry, to a depth of 1 to 2 inches.
By removing the plastic every few days and lightly misting the top layer of soil, you can keep the soil consistently moist. The plastic will also aid in containing water, limiting evaporation, and reducing the frequency of watering. Watch for signs of growth at the base of the cutting by placing the tray or container in an area with bright, indirect light.
Prior to transplanting, wait until a plantlet has reached a height of at least an inch or two. Keep the plantlet and all of its original roots while removing the original leaf. To help your new peperomia reach its full potential, transplant it into a larger pot and specialized houseplant potting soil.
Peperomia plants thrive in medium to bright light, so morning sunlight or indirect sunlight is just perfect for its growth. Giving your plant twelve to sixteen hours of artificial lighting at once will greatly aid in its growth and development.
While excessive direct sunlight can damage the plant by blazing the leaves, insufficient sunlight can lead to inadequate leaf growth or plant pallor, both of which are undesirable outcomes.
Summer is a favorite season for peperomia plants. Since their growth occurs most actively in the summer, they do best in these months when it is hot and muggy. Since they cannot survive in temperatures below 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 12.8 degrees Celsius), try to provide an artificial source of heat (not direct heat) during the winter months to keep the environment at its ideal temperature range of 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 26 degrees Celsius).
The Peperomia plants love steamy, humid heat. If you can't recreate your plant's ideal environment during the summer, you could put it in a pot with water and pebbles. Place your plant in a flat container, then add water and pebbles to it.
The peperomia genera of plants, which require heat and humidity to survive, can benefit from this trick by having more humidity in the air around them. If you have the funds, you might think about purchasing a small-scale humidifier since it would function in the same way.
All through the year, these plants adapt well to heat and humidity, but in the summer, these elements are essential to their development and survival.
Your freshly propagated Peperomia plant hardly needs any extra care, and you don't even need to water it unless the top of the soil becomes dry, as I already mentioned. Although it is okay if the soil goes without water for some time, this "dry" period should not be prolonged (remember to check the moisture in the soil from time to time).
To ensure the right amount of water is retained, pot the plant in a well-draining potting soil. The thick, succulent leaves of the Peperomia plants can store water, preventing shriveling and drying out.
I would advise you to let these plants grow in dry areas, though, as saturation or standing water around their roots could cause them to rot or promote the development of fungi, neither of which are desirable circumstances.
So, when it comes to watering, leave your plant alone for as long as the soil does not get completely parched, and it will be fine.
I adore that these plants are epiphytic, which means that they are used to growing on other trees and that they send their roots into the bark of those trees to obtain moisture and nutrients.
So while potting your propagated Peperomia plant, the chief focus should be upon recreating a living environment for the plant that will be close in its resemblance to the natural setting that these plants are used to.
Again, a typical orchid mix should work since I grow these plants in loose, large-grained soil with an acidic pH balance (below 7.0).
Pro tip: To make a regular potting mix lighter, add some vermiculite, as this type of soil texture will also work.
You will already be adding fertilizer when you propagate your plant through stem or leaf cuttings, so you don't need to add any more during this time.
The peperomia plants hardly require any additional nutrition in the wild beyond what they already receive from the bark of the host plant.
Similar to how there are no significant differences at home in terms of potting and caring for these plants, the basic principle remains the same. The likelihood of its survival increases with the amount of fertilizer added.
If your peperomia plant experiences any issues (such as wilting leaves, dark spots on the plant, etc.), they are likely the result of too much or too little heat, moisture, or light.
For these plants, fertilizer addition has little to no effect, so adding fertilizer won't help your plant's issues either.
The simplest and most affordable way to get yourself a plant is to propagate species that can grow from a small cutting, like the stem of a mature plant. The quickest and, in my opinion, most natural method for you to start your peperomia plant from scratch is through asexual propagation. Having a peperomia plant that is genetically identical to the robust and healthy parent plant from which you cut the stem cutting or leaf earns you bonus points for successful propagation.
Get your first cutting of a stem, and then plant it. Take good care of it so that it can develop into a strong, content plant. After that, you can always cut stem cuttings from your plant! Since your plant will be growing most actively and quickly during the summer and spring, propagating during these seasons is typically the best choice. However, this does not imply that you cannot propagate your plants during the winter.
The main cause of this is excessive amounts of stagnant moisture in the soil or an excessive amount of saturation in the potting soil that is beyond the tolerance range of your young plant. A problem with the humidity of the air in which your plant is growing may also be the cause of your peperomia's failure to reproduce. You won't have too many issues with your peperomia plant, to be fair. The environment's humidity or the moisture level of the soil are therefore the most likely culprits.
Only when the Peperomia plant is fully grown can it be propagated. I advise you to propagate peperomia in the spring or summer when the plant is at its most beautiful. You should notice new roots forming with the right combination of humidity and indirect sunlight. During this time, a plant that is propagating ought to be left unattended.